After forty three
trips up and down the Midland Highway over the last five years for the express
purpose of getting a jab in my arm to protect me from those lethal jack jumper
ants chock full of toxic poison, the scenery has become more than familiar.
Travelling down from my perch partway up the Great Western Tiers, I pick up the
bus twenty minutes into its journey from Launceston to Hobart.
Bus etiquette is a
funny thing. Not having the luxury of boarding the bus at the outset, I quickly
scan over the heads for that prized possession, a seat to myself. With precious
little leg room, the opportunity to have a modicum of comfort is tantamount to
essential for the two and a half hour trip. The only ones who choose to sit
together are those that get on together. Most heads are bowed, engaged in their
electronic device of choice. Thumbs pick up speed as messages fly around the
ether, ears are plugged into music, podcasts or movies. Some are reading, real
books and e-books. Very few take in the passing scenery. For me, the luxury of
someone else ferrying me from A to B frees me to observe, take photos, not an
easy thing when you’re being jolted, shaken and stirred, and wonder about the
lives of those who constantly battle the elements to eke out a living on the
land.
Opposite the Perth
bus stop where I wait to start the journey, old wares spill on to the footpath,
appropriate contents for the Robur House Antiques store which once sported its
original Robur Tea logo on the northern wall. It’s become one of those iconic
colonial landmarks along the route, along with St Andrews Inn, The Foxhunters
Return, The Gables, and the Campbelltown and Ross bridges just to name a few.
It’s
not a particularly warm morning, but a number of sheep have accommodated
themselves in the only shady spot in a vast paddock, reminding their owner there’s
more to farming than simply maximizing every square inch of land for grazing.
They might be destined for the dinner table, but surely a few more trees and windbreaks
to protect them from the punishing sun and biting winds can’t be that
difficult. Further on another mob of sheep stand in a perfectly formed large
circle, their attention focused on the one lone soul bang in the middle. Is it
their monthly union meeting? Are they hatching a plan well away from the farmer’s
attention? Maybe someone got out of line and discipline is being meted out, or the
motivational speaker that had been baaaed about has arrived. Then again, they
might just be playing some ovine version of piggy in the middle.
At
one level, there’s not a great deal to grab the attention at this time of the
year. No Swiss Alps or Grand Canyon to take your breath away, just a highway
winding through gently rolling hills and scrubby landscape, leaning telegraph
poles and skeletal trees throwing their limbs up in despair in their death
throes.
The
ground is leached of colour, a dull beige far into the distance, the mountain
ranges to the east and west the only contrast against the inevitable result of the
ravages of summer. Sun bleached paddocks wait expectantly for rain, even the
thistles have shrivelled, but the hawthorn berries are bursting with colour,
heralding a long cold winter so say many old timers. Give it another month or
so and it will be a different sight. The colourless ground will be green again,
everything softened, reminding us that what looked dead can still bring forth
life.
Autumn
has been a late starter, but the evidence of the cycle of the seasons is
starting to appear. The poplars are always the first to herald the change. Despite
the warm weather of late, their inbuilt calendar starts the shutdown process
from feeding their outermost parts to looking inward, leaving the leaves to
their fate while they store up reserves for the long cold winter in preparation
for the production line to go into full swing come next spring.
As
we travel, old and new stand side by side, often the old weathering their age
much more nobly than their more frequent counterparts. Stone cottages, barns,
inns and mansions in all their hues dot the landscape. Their stateliness and solidity
make the sprawl of brick veneer ordinary, ugly. They have no more right to be
here than everything else that’s come since, but somehow their presence, for man-made
structures anyway, seem to fit better.
Yet
another coat of paint and signage announces the arrival of a new business and
an attempt to once more breathe new life into shops that have seen many lives.
From butcher to baker, hardware to dressware, premises change hands again and
again in small country towns where dreams are born and often die. Besides the
essential supermarket or general store, newsagent, post office, hardware and
pub, a proliferation of cafes, galleries and gift shops reflect changing
interests and sources of income as travellers start to outnumber the local
population.
We
pass the Oatlands Mill, once abandoned but now restored and reclaimed for its
original purpose, grinding out flour by the sackful. The advent of plastic
wrapped sliced white bread we all thought was so progressive at one time maybe
led to the demise of many a mill, so to see an original be reborn is a delight.
Such businesses and trades take on a dual purpose, not only selling their produce
but satisfying the curiosity of tourists and travellers.
Roadworks
abound, widening the two hundred kilometre highway bit by bit, slowing down the
traffic flow, bringing it to a halt at times while graders, diggers, rollers
and monster machines fulfil their part of the task. At this rate, I’ll be in a nursing
home by the time the highway is complete.
Signposts invite me down roads I
have yet to explore, but there’s no getting off a bus hellbent on meeting its
schedule. My ticket has only one destination. We bypass Pontville, courtesy of
previous roadworks, a sad omission in my opinion, and instead run past the now
empty Pontville detention centre, or relocation centre, or whatever its current
label is. Either way it looks like a prison isolated in a barren wasteland.
Civilisation becomes more prevalent.
Timber yards, car wrecking yards, rural supplies stores, Maccas at Bridgewater,
then the first glimpse of the Derwent against the backdrop of Mount Wellington
in the distance. Ker-lunk ker-lunk ker-lunk go the wheels across the joins of
the bridge. Black swans gather near the shore, peacefully drifting, graceful,
while others look somewhat undignified with their tails up, heads down,
scanning the depths for their lunch.
Suburbia takes over, MONA announces
itself boldly, occupying its place of prominence at the water’s edge. So often
shrouded in cloud, Hobart’s iconic mountain is in full view, the sun gleaming
off its transmission tower. Houses, warehouses and blocks of units make way for
the city proper, an orderly patchwork of streets in which I easily become lost
if I’m not paying attention. Every intersection looks the same to me, no matter
what shops present themselves on each corner.
Just a few streets to go. A jogger
heads uphill, passing a man in overalls plodding slowly towards the city centre,
his wide girth slowing him down despite the fact he’s going downhill. Two red
tee-shirted guys head into Room for a
Pony for lunch, pedestrians fill the streets, my fellow passengers stir and
ready themselves to leave our sardine tin, and the journey ends. Not a word has
been exchanged.
Several hours later, the homeward
journey is a similar affair, but with much less to see. It is light when we
depart, but all too soon an orange glow diffuses into the horizon as a half
moon replaces the sun, accompanied by isolated stars already dotted on the
early night sky. The moon mysteriously scuds across the sky and disappears as
the bus changes direction, then just as quickly reappears, telling me we’re
heading north, heading home.
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